Sunday, August 3, 2014

Sarajevo to Belgrade

There is one daily bus from Sarajevo to Belgrade. It runs at 6am for a cost of 47KM arriving in Belgrade around 1pm. The bus stops for breakfast in Serbia around 11am, the place will accept Bosnian Marks, giving Serbian Dinars for change and has decent food. 

Belgrade is a big city. The aging historic capital of Yugoslavia the city now in many ways symbolizes the internal conflict within the Serbian population over their past and the nation's collective future. The ongoing conflict can be seen in many places - in the Serbian national museum which has been closed since 1999 and today remains "under construction" except for an occasional small exhibit (when I visited it was "Serbia during the Great War.") It is visible in the ruins of the former ministry of defense headquarters buildings occupying key real estate but left standing following the 1999 NATO air campaign that destroyed both building across the street from the Serbian Ministry of Foreign Affairs. And it's visible in the tension that arises with any mention of Kosovo, which is rarely discussed because it clearly raises a range of emotions. 

The city prides itself on its nightlife, there is no shortage of 'party hostels' and on any given night hoards of British and Australian travelers can be found on the floating bars on riverside. The parks  along the river including the large castle grounds are one of the biggest attractions, and the best way to experience them is by bike. Many hostels will rent them for E6-E7 which makes it easy to travel from the old part of the city to Novi Beograd to the Zemun neighborhood which has an outdoor market and some nice seafood restraunts (Kod Kapitan has good fresh fish from the river and though I had some concerns about eating fish from the river the Smuch (Perch)  wound up being pretty good) and cafes along the water, or to the beach area popular in the summertime. The food options were relatively disappointing. I had a decent meal at Hotel Majestic of roast lamb which the make on Thursdays and Fridays. The hostel - Hostel Goodtime Grooves - had Pizza burek. otherwise nothing to speak of. 



It's a great place to stay a while if you're looking to party. Two days in the city is enough to see the main sights and then head on to other parts of Serbia, or to Hungary or Romania. 

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